So we've established NZ is gloriously beautiful to look at. Before I get onto the list proper, I will allow my sentimental side a moment to reflect on Christchurch. Like everywhere in NZ, the people were friendly and welcoming; the streets were clean and when sun shone you could see why people still want to call it their home. On a summer's day, with a wide expanse of blue above and beams of light skittering off the river Avon's ripples; ducks waddling beside you and a huge weeping willow sagging over the waters edge like a cheerful drunk, you could be excused for muttering to yourself: "this is a city?" I understand why they want to rebuild; it was a wonderful example of how hundreds of thousands of people can live in something other than a 'concrete jungle'.
The true beauty of NZ can only be seen when one ventures away from the towns and cities. You don't have to travel far, especially near Dunedin or Nelson, to find something worth making your 'profile picture'. To enjoy all of NZ you only have to do two things; tramp (NZ word for hike) and camp. With that in mind, I start with one of the most awesome campsites I will ever stay on. (A note: NZ is great for camping and Department of Conservation campsites you not only pay very little for a nights stay but often you get to sleep in the most inspiring of surroundings. You can pick up camp guide books from DOC offices and I would recommend you do, if you really want to experience real NZ.)
Actually, one more thing before I start this list; I want all readers to understand that I have made this list in order to share some of the most precious images I have in my mental catalogue and I do want other people to experience these places, be changed by them and realise why we must not let greed and ignorance ruin places like these. I feel I should not share these places as they are crowded enough as it is but I also can't deny people their splendour so please do all you can to respect them.
Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park:
It is probably fair to point out that upon visiting Aoraki/Mt Cook and a lot of the other places on this list, the weather was kind to us. I cannot therefore claim that it or any of the other places will look particularly good in a heavy downpour but then where does? To give an idea of the beauty of the place, Aoraki is the Maori name for NZ's highest mountain and means "Cloud Piercer". What a truly accurate and beautiful name for the mountain. The experience of Aoraki begins before you reach the N.P boundary. Rise early and watch the dark blue waters of Lake Tekapo emit a layer of mist that hangs like an orange veil at the lake edges. The indigo sky will twitch with blues and white and slowly the mountain peaks will whiten in the distance and the lake's blue will wilt to a milky grey. A short drive, mountains falling away at your side as if they were cardboard scenery being removed from a film-set and suddenly you're rounding the bottom shore of a strikingly turquoise lake: Lake Pukaki. Like a giant natural imagining of Excalibur rising from the depths of the lake, comes Aoraki's peak. A prism of white etched into the background, almost too idealistic to be real, as if it were an entrance to a long forgotten time, only known in folklore.
The drive alongside the lake is serene - except when you reach a lookout, the serenity and your ability to take a clear picture become quickly encumbered by tourists - with flowers lining the road side, cattle grazing beside the lake edge and a what seemed one conjoined mountain range reveals itself to be myriad mountains. Your eyes, rising and falling, will once again fixate on that greatest piercer of clouds.You set up camp beneath the looming presence of Mt Sefton and stare at faces carved by its glaciers. You're first night, with a sky too wide to understand and the distant rumble of avalanches, is one spent with the tent door open and your sleeping bag around your shoulders. The next day offers a number of walking options; if you're fit and feeling adventurous then climb to Sealy Tarns. It will take a few hours and a lot of your energy but it's worth it for the views. If you're really gung-ho then continue up to to the Mueller Ridge hut (DOC hut, limited space, book at the hermitage) to watch the sunset behind Aoraki, sleep atop a mountain and witness the sun rise out of the lake.
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| Sealy Tarns |
The Tongariro Crossing:
I think I found myself caught up in the romance of Aoraki all over again whilst writing about it and fear this may happen again with Tongariro. This day long tramp across volcanic tundra; past the black sculptures of past pyroclastic flows that, not so long ago, crept down Mt Ngauruhoe's (Mt Doom to Lord of the Rings fans) steep slopes and into the southern crater you will find yourself in after a few hours of walking. You, if the weather's right and you have the energy, can scramble up the now cold lava to the volcano's summit. The view is a mixture of disassociation with the surreal shapes and colours upon which you stand and awe at the views falling away in the distance (look to the west and try and spot Mt Taranaki's snowy peak). After the slightly dangerous decent back to the southern crater, another 5 or 6 hours of walking is not wasted; glistening green pools, vents releasing sulphuric gases and the huge twisted mess of a giant, long dead lava flow all await you.
The final 2 hours however, are not so much fun, once you snap a few pictures, the seemingly endless path winding down the mountain side to the car park is unnecessarily tedious. Alas it is so and there is no other option. Also, unless you arrange to swap car keys with someone walking in the other direction, you're limited to hitching (potentially difficult given the small number of vehicles that travel on that stretch of road) and buses (pricey but efficient and convenient). There's a hostel which is more like a hotel in National Park (on the outskirts of the actual park) or two DOC campsites in the park itself. As long as you go during clear weather and you plan you transport you'll welcome the pain in your legs and the ache in your feet. The alien landscape is at once unexpectedly frightening and overwhelmingly beautiful.
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| Looking across the Red Crater |
Fjordland N.P:
It is at this point I run out of superlatives. Four days of camping and tramping in Fjordland was enough to grant it a place in the "must never forget" cupboard of my brain. Two nights were spent beside the rippleless waters of Lake Gunn. Clouds were gathered about the surrounding mountain tops like a shawl when I first arrived but by the morning, there was only lake and the reflection of the lake in the sky. Climbing to Key Summit, an easy 2 and a half hour walk gave the first real glimpse across the valleys of Fjordland. I was unusually fortunate with regards to weather whilst in Fjordland and cannot imagine it would evoke the same levels of sentimentality, where it not for the clear skies and lack of rain. A boat trip on Milford Sound (several cruise operators offer competitive prices for time on the sound; I chose the smaller operator and was rewarded with an excellent trip) is customary and recommended; apparently it's especially good during heavy rain as the waterfalls become even more impressive but whatever the weather, go early in the morning or very late in the day to avoid the crowds.
There are countless tracks, long and short; each has it's own merits but one that is a must (for the fit and prepared, not a walk to be taken lightly) on a clear summers day, is Gertrude's Saddle. The walk -which is quite exhilarating in itself - takes about 5-6 hours round trip, traverses a waterfall, steep, sheer rock and ice (even in summer) until you reach the saddle itself, well over a thousand metres up. Then its a case of unpacking your food, sitting near the edge and watch as helicopters buzz over the thick green valleys, snowy mountain peaks and Milford Sound to the sea. Just make sure you watch out for Kea's, they're cheeky mountain parrots and will steal anything not attached to you.
Fjordland is about getting in to nature. A visit for the day is great but doesn't do the area justice, even 4 days wasn't enough but Fjordland weather is notoriously changeable and worse still it sees more rain than anywhere else in NZ. If you get time, walk, tramp, climb and or sit beside a lake watching dragonflies mate in the warm morning sun (which I did on my last morning). Just ensure you make the most of the incredible natural beauty around you and try not to get eaten alive by Sandflies, the plague of Fjordland.
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| The view from Gertrudes Saddle |
The Banks Peninsular:
The Banks Peninsular is dominated by the extremes of colour that come screaming into your eyes when you reach the first set of hills that offer sublime views over Akaroa Harbour. The water is of the bluest hue whilst the grass is of the greenest. Walking around the peninsular takes several days and has recently been voted one NZ top walks. With seals, Hectors dolphins, Blue Penguins and sometimes Orca; the waters in and around the peninsular are teeming with life. Hectors dolphins are the smallest and rarest dolphins in the world and are incredible to spend time with. I went kayaking from Onuku Farm hostel (one of the nicest hostels in NZ, worth visiting in itself, especially at Christmas) and managed to interact with a mother and calf; the mother gracefully but carefully ushered the tiny calf towards us so it could look at the strangers floating on the water, then disappeared. Fortunately, moments later more dolphins arrived and wanted to play. They left me no choice but to play. Racing through the water, with dolphins either side of me, criss crossing in front and underneath my kayak. It was ten minutes of my life I will cherish forever. Sadly this level of interaction isn't guaranteed but a warm summers day next to the cold blue water is not a bad way to spend some time in NZ. Not as striking as some of the other places I have listed, the Banks Peninsular has a seed of simple, idyllic prettiness that seems to grow inside you until it is as immensely beautiful as the other destinations I have mentioned.
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| Looking out onto Akaroa Harbour |
North West Nelson Region:
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| Kahurangi N.P |
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| Sunrise - Totaranui Bay Abel Tasman N.P |
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| Wharariki Beach |
Just find your way around NZ and you'll come across plenty of places as beautiful as these fairly well known ones. I have lots more places to recommend but the beauty of travel is finding them for yourself. Asking locals, hostel owners and other backpackers is a great way to find 'off the map' kind of places. There's nothing wrong with doing a tour, they bring money into the local economies but remember that it's possible to find them for yourself. If you can, share a car or buy a economical car or cycle. You're never more aware of what you're destroying when you are reckless with your carbon footprint (I know my lengthy world trip means I owe some serious time to the environment) in a country as green and open as NZ.
One last thing; NZ has great vineyards and a best of list wouldn't be complete without mentioning that in order to sample all of NZ delights, a wine tour is a must.
